Champion Quick-Lock Installation Tooling - Tube Cutter, Deburring Tools, Marking Gauge, Drill Jig and Wrench Sets

Champion sells Quick-Lock on the promise that no welding, gluing or threading is needed and very little skill is required. That promise holds, but it assumes four things happen correctly at every joint: the tube is cut square, the outside diameter is deburred, the tube is pushed fully home, and the nut is torqued. This listing is the tooling that makes those four things reliable instead of hopeful.

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Model Selection Chart

What You Actually Need for a Given Job

Champion's Four-Step Install, and the Tool for Each

1. Remove burrs from the outside diameter of the tube. Clean and remove any shavings. This is Champion's step one, and it is the step most leaks trace back to. A burr drags across the o-ring on insertion and cuts it. Hand deburring tool, or the drill-operated one at volume.
2. Add oil on the tube before inserting into the fitting. No tool, just do it.
3. Insert the tube, rotating it as you push, until fully seated. The marking gauge is how you know "fully seated" rather than assuming it. Mark the depth before you push, and if the mark disappears into the nut you are home. Fittings 14mm through 40mm come fully assembled and factory-torqued; do not loosen those nuts before installing the pipe. The 50mm and 63mm fittings ship with their nuts unscrewed.
4. Torque the nut. 14mm is push lock and needs none. 20mm and 25mm take 300 cN.m (26 in-lb), 32mm takes 400 cN.m (35 in-lb), 40mm takes 650 cN.m (58 in-lb), and 50mm and 63mm take 65 N.m (48 ft-lb). The wrench sets are sized for the fitting nuts.

Then commission it Champion's way: close all outlets, make sure a relief valve and an isolation valve are fitted, raise the pressure in 15 psig increments holding ten minutes at the first step, inspect for leakage and joint slippage at every step, and hold full working pressure for one hour at the end. Never exceed 220 psig during testing.

A Note on the Saddle Drill Jig and Bits

Champion's August 2026 price list carries two saddle clamp drill bits, one for 25mm to 32mm tubing and one for 40mm to 63mm, but only one drill jig, and the jig's part number and its description disagree: it is printed as XCQL-SCDB-20-32 while the description reads "Saddle Clamp Drill Jig (25mm - 32mm Tubing)". The bit for 25mm to 32mm is also the only one annotated "Drill Jig Required".

We have listed the jig exactly as the book prints it rather than correcting the number ourselves, and we have asked Champion to confirm both the part number and whether a jig exists for the 40mm to 63mm bit. If you are drilling 40mm or larger, call us before you order and we will confirm what the factory ships with that bit.

Ideal Applications

Contractors and mechanical installers fitting out Quick-Lock systems, plant maintenance departments that will be adding drops and moving machines for years, and any shop doing its own install over a weekend. The tooling is a one-time purchase that makes every future change to the system a job you can do in-house instead of calling someone.

Buy the Tools Once

The real argument for a loop main and a push-fit piping system is that the plant can change it later without a contractor. That only holds if the tools are in the building. A plant that owns a cutter, a deburring tool, a marking gauge and the right wrenches can add a drop on a Tuesday morning; a plant that does not will wait three weeks and pay someone to bring them.

Building a Complete Quick-Lock System

• Quick-Lock aluminum tubing, 14mm to 63mm
• Saddle clamp outlets - these are what the drill jig and bits are for
• Straight union connectors
• 90 and 45 degree elbows and street elbows
• Strut, wall and hanging brackets
• Replacement o-rings for the crib

Ordering Notes

• All Quick-Lock products and accessories are NO CANCEL / NO RETURN, per Champion's current price list.
• Freight: freight collect from Huntersville, NC 28078 or Las Vegas, NV 89113.
• Shipping weights: Champion publishes no weight for the Quick-Lock accessory range, so no catalog weight is carried on these variants.

Why Buy from Air Compressor Store

Air Compressor Store is an authorized Champion Pneumatic distributor. Tell us the sizes in your take-off and we will tell you the minimum tool list that will actually get the job done, rather than selling you the full-range wrench set for a two-size install. Send us the layout and we will quote pipe, fittings, brackets and tools together.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I cut the tube with a hacksaw or a chop saw?

You can cut aluminum with plenty of things. The question is whether the cut is square and the burr is gone, because the fitting seals on the outside diameter and a ragged end will damage the o-ring going in. If you are doing more than a handful of joints, the proper cutter and deburring tool are worth it. Either way, deburr and clean off every shaving before the tube goes near a fitting.

Hand deburring tool or drill-operated?

Hand for a small job, drill-operated for a big one. The drill version is $252 list against $68, so it earns out somewhere in the low hundreds of joints, and it earns out faster in comfort than in money.

Do I need the marking gauge?

Not strictly, but it is the only way to verify a joint is fully home without taking it apart. On a 200-joint system it is the difference between confidence and a leak hunt. It covers 20mm through 63mm; 14mm is push lock and simpler.

Which wrench set should I buy?

Match it to the sizes actually in your take-off. Each two-size set gives you two double-ended wrenches covering 20mm plus one larger size. If the job spans three or more sizes, the full-range set (two each of 20mm x 25, 32, 40, 50 and 63mm, $701 list) works out better than buying several pairs.

Do I need a torque wrench as well?

Champion publishes a torque figure per size and the fitting is only rated when it is tightened to that figure, so on a system you are going to pressure test and sign off, yes, use a torque wrench on the nuts. The Champion wrench sets are the correct profile for the fitting nuts; the torque reading comes from your wrench.

Is the drill jig required for every saddle clamp?

Champion annotates the 25mm to 32mm bit "Drill Jig Required" and does not carry that note on the 40mm to 63mm bit. We treat the jig as required practice for any saddle outlet you intend to keep, because the clamp gasket seals around that hole and freehand drilling an air main rarely produces a hole worth sealing against. See the note above about the jig's part number.